WATER RESISTANT FABRIC ~ QUILTED FABRIC ~ WOOL FABRIC
How to sew waterproof fabric to make a watertight seam.
We use waterproof fabric for a number of things ranging from outdoor furniture, tents, and awnings to sports clothing and BAGS. But if the seams are sewn incorrectly they will let the water in. Waterproof fabric that will face constant exposure to outdoor weather should be sewn with a flat-felled seam. It is recommended that an ultra-violet protected thread should be used so it won't deteriorate in the sunlight, this is optional. It is also optional to wipe the seams with a sealant to protect the thread and seal the join completely.
What Needle should I use on waterproof fabric?
I always change my needle at the beginning of a new project. If the fabric is dense, use a sharp needle such as a microfiber needle or a fine jeans needle. For lighter weight fabric use a 70/10 or 80/12 and for heavier weight fabrics use a 90/14.
How to sew a flat felled seam
1. Place the fabrics wrong sides together.
2. Sew along the side and leave 5/8 inch ( 1.5cm) seam.
3. Trim the excess fabric on one of the sides and leave only 1/8 inch ( 5mm).
4. Press flat and overlap the widest seam to the side.
5. Fold the seam 1/8 inch (5mm) and pin along to keep in place.
6. Sew a new parallel line. I tend to follow the original seam line (where my presser foot is) and keep 1/8 inch (5mm) distance from the edge.
7. Press flat again.
Tips for sewing waterproof fabrics
- Use a walking foot with a sharps needle.
- Use a longer stitch (3) to minimize the number of holes made in the fabric.
- Pin in the seam allowance or use clips to reduce holes. Alternatively, use fabric weights for cutting out pieces.
- To finish seams that still look like they could be a weak spot use seam sealant tape over your stitching.
Water Resistant Fabrics from Croft Mill Fabrics
Showcase quilted lining fabric
What is Quilted Fabric?
Quilting is the process of sewing two or more layers of fabric together to make a thicker padded material, usually to create a quilt or quilted garment. Typically, quilting is done with three layers: the top fabric or quilt top, batting or insulating material and backing material.
What can I use this lining for?
Lining fabric is used for many reasons, to conceal the inside of the garment or bag, no-one wants to wear a beautifully tailored jacket with exposed seams as it looks unsightly and can cause the seams to rub and undo. Lining a coat, bag, or dress adds structure, durability, and often warmth.
This quilted lining is a good quality 150cm wide quilted polyester with a 1oz wadding. It is not that heavy and can be used in coats, waistcoat/ gilet, jackets and bags.
Do I need a special needle when sewing this fabric?
To sew this fabric you can use the standard needle which is 80/12, however, if you are sewing through a thicker fabric as well as this one at the same time you should look to a denim or 90/14 needle.
Is this fabric washable?
This fabric can be washed, however, it may hold lots of water as it has a batting/wadding layer. Wash on low heat and hang out to dry.
Croft Mill has a superb collection of wool cloth available to buy online by the metre. Mostly from Britain and Italy. Wool cloths can be woven or knitted just the same as other fibres, and each produces a fabric with different qualities. Woven wool cloth tends to be more stable, with little to no stretch which makes it ideal for structural garments and outerwear such as coats. Wool is great for a lot more from cushions to curtains to upholstery and even bags.
Wool will shrink, and in some cases by a lot. But pre-washing isn't really as straightforward here as with other fabrics. The general advice is to always pre-treat your uncut material in the same way that you will be treating your finished garment, but often wool says dry-clean or handwash only. I usually hand wash in warm water and I don't wring the cloth out, I squeeze it gently and then let it drip dry.
Should I use a special needle when sewing wool fabric?
A standard 80/12 pointed needle is best when sewing with natural fibres, but a sharp needle will be required when working with heavier wools. However, a ballpoint or jersey needle might be better when sewing with finer knitted wool fabric to allow the needle to slip between the fibres. For best results always make sure you use a new needle when starting a project and you may even need to change needles during the process if you are making a heavy coat.
Ironing or pressing
When pressing your garment during construction you must be very careful - a hot iron will damage your fabric irreparably and too much steam could cause more shrinkage. Always use the 'wool' setting on your iron and use a steam cloth so you are not putting the iron directly onto your fabric. You can also steam instead of pressing, which means the iron never actually touches the cloth. Hold the iron an inch above the fabric and let the steam do the work of getting rid of the wrinkles. Allow the garment to dry naturally and do not pull out of shape whilst it is damp.
Fabric showcase from Croft Mill fabrics
Great web links to free tutorials and patterns. It's in the bag!!
Make a roll top backpack, tutorial.
Another great tutorial on making a bottle tote from Pattern Pile.
Sew your own outdoor gear, a great website with lots of different outdoor tutorials.
Very good tutorial on sewing waterproof fabrics from Sewaholic.
Make a camping windbreak from The Stitchery.
From Crazy Little Projects a nice backpack for the kids.
Stroller Warriors have a nice tutorial on making drawstring bags