About Linen Fabric
Linen is easy to sew, it does not slip or stretch when you are cutting it out or sewing a seam. However, linen is prone to shrinking and to fraying, so special care must be taken when preparing it for layout and when finishing seams.
- Pre-wash the fabric and dry it before you cut it out.
- Use a machine needle between size 70/10 and size 90/14, depending on the weight of the linen.
- Sew with stitch length at 2.5-3mm.
- Mark the right side of your fabric when laying it out.
- Use soap to mark the linen. (I use the slithers left from washing)
- Finish seams to prevent fraying by overlocking or zig-zag stitching. Pinking is easiest for beginners.
- Linen is not easy to ease, so choose a pattern that requires little easing.
- Topstitching works well on linen. Linen is also great for machine embroidery.
What is a performance fabric?
Performance fabrics are fabrics engineered for a wide variety of uses where the performance of the fabric is the major parameter. Performance fabrics may be used in for all activewear, sportswear, summer and winter wear, mountain activities, trekking and work wear. Croft Mill fabrics stock super lightweight microlight performance fabric, to give you an idea of weight they are 2oz, similar to a lining fabric. This comes from a manufacturer using Pertex and this fabric is used in some high-end performance gear. Made of nylon, very water resistant, windproof and breathable.
What are the benefits of Pertex fabrics?
- Pertex® fabrics encourage rapid evaporation by utilizing capillary action to disperse moisture over a broad area, rather than wicking directly through the weave of the fabric.
- Engineered to optimize thermal efficiency,
- Prevent the onset of hypothermia,
- Stabilize the body's core temperature.
How should I wash this fabric?
One of the most important ways to care for your Pertex® waterproof is to wash it regularly. This removes dirt and oils that can build up on the fabric. If you have a store-bought jacket or another item, read the washing instructions and follow any specific instructions provided.
For the best results, we recommend using a specific performance clothing product such as Nikwax Tech Wash®. If you do not have this do not use detergents as they can damage the fabric, soap flakes or a washing soap bar would be better.
After washing, line or hang dry your fabric. Do not scrunch, or wring the fabric whilst wet as this will cause the fabric to break down.
Restoring Water Repellency
Pertex® waterproof fabrics use a durable water repellent (DWR) finish to prevent the outside of the fabric from absorbing water, this helps to maximise the breathability and keep you dry. Over time, this DWR finish will become less effective. After extensive wear and washing, you may need to reapply the DWR to your jacket. There are many products available, we recommend using Nikwax TX.Direct®. Follow the instructions on the specific product you use.
Top tips for sewing waterproof fabrics
- Use a roller or walking foot with a Microtex sharps needle. ( depending on the thickness of your fabric use 60/10 or 70/11)
- Use a longer stitch to minimize the number of holes made in the fabric.
- Use clips rather than pins to reduce holes. Alternatively, use fabric weights for cutting out pieces.
- To finish seams finger press them open and finish with seam sealant tape.