* Fabrics * Zips * Elastic * Sew-A-Long
Inserting Open-end Zips
Open – end zips are ideal for active sportswear and casual jackets. The bottom stop-splits into two parts to allow the zip to be completely opened. It is a practical and sturdy fastening, designed to open easily and yet stay closed during exercise. Open-end zips can be inserted with the teeth covered or exposed. Those with brightly coloured plastic coils are designed to be seen as part of the fashion detailing of a garment.
How to insert a covered open end zip
Use basting tape or glue to hold zip face up, under faced open edges. Position the pull tab 1/8″ (3mm) below the neckline seam line. Edges of the opening should meet at the centre of the zip, covering the teeth.
Open zip. Turn ends of zip tape under at the top of the garments. Pin in place as shown.
Top-stitch 3/8″ (1cm) from each opening edge, sewing through fabric and zip tape. Stitch from bottom to top on each side, adjusting zip foot to correct side for sewing.
How to insert an exposed open end zip
Pin faced opening edges to closed zip so that edges are close to but not covering zip teeth, with pull tab 1/8″ (3mm) below neck seam line.
Tack zip in place with tape ends extending above the neck seam line. Turn ends of zip tape under at top of garment if facing is already attached. Open Zip.
Top-stitch close to opening edges on the right side of the garment, using zip foot and stitching from bottom to top on each side. To hold the zip tape flat, add another line of stitching 1/4″ (6mm) from the first stitching line.
A bit about elastics
Elastics differ in their stretch and recovery characteristics, as well as their suitability for a sewing method.
- Braided elastic narrows when stretched so it is most often used in a casing.
- Knitted and woven elastics retain their original width when stretched. Those made from cotton and rubber are the most durable.
- Felt-back or lingerie elastic is comfortable when worn next to the skin.
- Elastics for swimwear have been treated to resist the damaging effects of chlorine and salt and will not lose elasticity when wet.
You Tube Video – How to sew an elastic waistband by Professor Pincushion.
Sew A Long – Newlook 6216 view B without pocket
My Review: I would cut the neckline a bit smaller as it is quite wide. Other than that, it is a great pattern with easy to follow instructions.
How easy is this pattern to sew?
This pattern is suitable for beginners and is a joy to sew together as it is quick.
Do I need a machine that has stretch stitches?
A sewing machine that can do a straight and zigzag stitch is fine for sewing this. I used a zig-zag stitch the sewed each stitch 2 long and the width at 0.5, this gives the stitch a stretch.
What needles do I need?
Use a stretch needle as you are sewing a jersey fabric and it stretches.
What fabric do I need?
You need to choose a fabric that stretches. On the envelope back you will find lots of fabric suggestions as well as a “stretch” guide. Any jersey or knitted fabric will be suitable. A cotton fabric does not stretch. Look for your size and see how much fabric you need. This is a loose fitting t-shirt so if you prefer a more fitted look read the pattern paper to see the sizing.
Cutting the pattern pieces out.
- I made view B without the front pocket.
- Cut out four main pieces, the Back, Front, Sleeve band, neckband.
- Use pattern weights with a rotary cutter or pins with scissors.
- The back and front need to be placed on a fold.
- Read the pattern instructions to make sure you cut the correct amount of pieces.
- Mark the notches ^ with a small snip or a marker pen.
- There should be one back piece cut on a fold. one front piece cut on a fold, two armbands and one neckband.
Putting it together
- Place the back piece right side up
- Lie the front piece on top matching the shoulder seams
- Pin at the shoulder seam and sew them together using a 5/8″ (1.5cm) seam.
TOP TIP: Always sew away from the neck edge never to the neck edge. If the fabric is going to move it won’t distort the neck shape.
Finishing the seam off
To finish the seam at the shoulder I sewed the seam open doing a row of stretch stitching either side of the main stitch. I find that this helps keep the sleep shape on a drop shouldered pattern. Jersey fabric does not fray so trim back after sewing.
The neck band
- Measure the neck band around the neck edge.
- It should be shorter than the neck circumference by about 4 – 5cm. This is to allow the neckband to draw the neckline in and not become “baggy”. Cut a bit smaller if too long.
- Place the two ends together and sew together to make a circle.
- Fold the neckband in half and pin so you know where the back seam is and half for the front seams.
- Start sewing the neckband from the centre back seam.
- Pull slightly to keep the tension and get the fabrics to meet up as you sew around.
- Sew a 1.5cm seam making sure all layers are being sewn together.
- Fold the neck edge back and do a row of topstitching stretch stitch length 3 around the base of the neck to catch the seam and also to neaten it.
- The neck should not bag or sag but be firm and retain its shape. If it is not like that UNPICK and do it again. Getting it right is a triumph and not only will it fit nicely but look great.
Sewing the side seams
- Place the front onto the back right sides together.
- Pin the side seams matching the notches.
- Sew together using a stretch stitch and 5/8″ or 1.5cm seam allowance.
- Trim the seam edge back to around 5mm and
zig zag, this once again is not necessary but helps keep its shape when being pulled over your head.
- Turn the hemline up and pin
- Sew it using the stretch stitch. This can be finished in more than one way. Two rows of stitching one on the edge and the other 5 mm inside of it looks great. You can also use a decorative stitch to sew the edge down.
The sleeve bands
- Sew the ends of each band together using the stretch stitch.
- Fold it in half and pin together.
- Proceed as for the neck edge. Pin right sides together with the sleeve edge.
- Match the underarm sleeve seam with the join in the band.
- Attach the band and sew the seam flat with another row of stitching.
It is finished, Enjoy it an make some more.
Pattern Inspiration for Jersey Fabrics
Check this website for great patterns and sales. https://www.sewdirect.com/
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