About this Jacket
This is a jacket pattern suitable for a number of fabrics, it is a fitted unlined jacket with a lapelled collar, pockets and a stitched hem.
There are quite a few pattern reviews for this pattern made with stretch fabric. I will include a few at the end of this sew- a – long.
What Fabric is suitable?
It is designed for fabrics with a bit of stretch, however, it can be made with a woven fabric, but you do need to make a toile/ muslin before had to get the fit correct, If you are a beginner try a stretch fabric first as it may be easier.
What fabric I used to sew this Jacket
I am going to be using a fabric with no stretch, it is called ” Is it a bird?” From Croft Mill Fabrics.
Sewing this pattern using a non-stretch fabric
Instead of making a separate toile/ muslin I am going to make a lining which uses the pattern pieces 5, 2 and 10 of the jacket. The lining will serve as a toile and only once I have it fitting perfectly will I cut out my main fabric and sew it together using the changes I had to make to the lining to get the fit for my body right.
Choosing the right size –
read this blog on pattern sizes – The curvey collective
Look at the pattern sizes on the envelope flap to determine your correct size. Ensure you have your upper bust measurement, bust measurements, waist and hip measurements. Once you have chosen your size, open the pattern up and cut out the pieces you require on the biggest sizes.
I am making view D, I need pattern pieces 2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9 and 10.
Measure the pattern piece at the size you have chosen to see if it will fit you. Keep in mind that a woven or non-stretch fabric needs ease so use your measurements plus enough for the ease you require when measuring. Do not measure the seam allowance.
You may find you need to really use more than one pattern size if your measurements don’t fit the chosen size. Use a new sheet of paper to trace your pattern off if you are going from one size to another, do not destroy your original pattern piece.
Trace markers and notches to any redrawn pattern piece.
What Lining fabric is best?
I just chose some leftover black fabric I had in my cupboard but you can use a nice cotton, or even lining fabric. Lining fabric can be light and comfortable in a jacket and give it an expensive look.
Read all the instructions on the pattern insert at least once before sewing. The glossary has all the information that is referred to in the pattern instructions.
Make the lining toile/ muslin
Cut out the pattern pieces 5, 2 and 10 in your lining fabric. Proceed with steps 2, 11,12, 26, 27 and 31. This should give you a workable lining and a toile/muslin for this jacket.
Fitting issues which can arise –
- Check the shoulders fit nicely. If they are too far over your shoulder line you need to adjust to ensure they fit properly. Make shoulder adjustments with Nancy Zieman https://www.nancyzieman.com/blog/sewing-with-nancy/how-to-alter-patterns-for-narrow-shoulders/
- The collar line should fit snug around the neck. Alter darts and mid back seam so it fits nicely.
- The back should fit properly, it should not be flappy around the lower edge or around the waist area when closed in the front.
- The sleeves should have room to move and the length that you require.
Cut out your main fabric
- Cut out the pattern pieces in the main fabric for the view you are going to make.
- Some pieces need to be interfaced. I interfaced pieces 8 and 6.
- Make sure you have marked all the darts and notches on your fabric pieces, that will make things easier to put together.
Start sewing the main fabric
What is Interfacing?
Interfacing is an extra layer of material or an adhesive stiffener that is applied to the facing of a garment to add support.
- Take the pattern pieces as shown on the pattern sheet.
- Pin them on a piece of iron on interfacing and cut two of each.
- Turn the iron on to a suitable heat, use a pressing cloth if you are not sure of the settings and lay the interfacing onto the wrong side of the main fabric pieces.
- Press until the interfacing is attached to the fabric.
Reinforce the corners and sew the bust dart
- This is pretty important to do as it enables you to snip into the corner and that in turn lets the fabric straighten at that place. Useful when sewing the collar together.
- Fold the fabric to meet for the dart, start on the outside and sew towards the point. I sew straight off at the point and cut long threads which I knot with a couple of knots and then trim. I find it just makes the point a bit smoother.
Sew the pockets
- This is quite easy, the pattern instructions recommend you sew two rows of gathering stitches around the two rounded edges.
- This is great for getting the correct shape. Press the fabric as you go to get the nice pocket shape required.
- Using a woven fabric I had to edge all my pieces to stop them from fraying, but if you use stretch that will not be necessary.
- Follow the pattern steps they are straightforward.
Placing and sewing the pockets in place.
- I have marking pens and tailor’s chalk but I prefer using soap to mark my pocket placements. Lay the paper pattern pieces on top of the front pieces and mark where the pockets need to go.
- Pin the pockets with quite a few pins as they tend to move a bit when you sew them.
- Strengthen the stitching at the top of the pockets so they do not pull away if you have your hands in them.
Sew the back darts and centre seam
- Fold the darts outer edges together and sew dart to their points.
- Iron flat, towards the armholes.
- Pin the centre back and sew together. This is a useful seam, as you can alter the seam depth for sway back and/or rounded shoulders.
Sew the shoulder seams and attach the under collar
- Match the shoulder seams wrong side to the wrong side and sew together.
- Match the side seams wrong side to the wrong side and sew together.
- Press these nicely and then try it on.
- Check how the back fits, alter the centre seam if you need to.
- Attach the under collar as per the instructions. Use lots of pins and match the notches.
Finish the edges and reinforce the corners
- I overlocked the edges which made it easier to turn under and sew neatly.
- Reinforce the corners as before and snip to the stitching.
- Fold the shoulder edge over and stitch down on the front facing piece.
Attach the collar to the facing
- Take your time, the collar is tricky. You need to use lots of pins and try to match up the notches.
- Trim, this is the secret to getting the collar to work nicely. The seams need to be trimmed to get a good finish. I trimmed one seam side more than the other.
Completing the collar
- Follow each step slowly, ease the pieces together at the notches. I had to unpick this bit twice as I got fabric caught and bunched up. It is worth persevering. This was the hardest part of getting this pattern right.
- Trims seams, one side more than the other so not all the bulk is on the same side.
- Press carefully, use a pressing cloth. Press don’t iron. Ironing can make things stretch out of shape.
- Tack first if like me you had to unpick.
Collar and back
This is what the back and collar should now look like. no fabric catching and relatively smooth finish.
The sleeve dart and the gathering stitches
- Use a straight stitch on stitch length 4, no reverse stitches. Sew two rows of stitching between the circle markings.
- Put outer dart edge together and sew the dart to the point tying them off for a better finish.
- Sew the sleeve seam with right side to right side.
Pattern review from Sew Crafty Chemist – stretch jacket.
Pattern video sew- a- long by Stitched Up